Saturday, February 27, 2010

An Update, finally.

Somehow, I have managed to neglect this blog for the last several weeks, for which I don’t really have any excuse. I have been in Copenhagen, going to class, but not much else. Sometime soon, I will have a post or two on the Danish prehistory exhibit at the National Museum, which is very interesting. I will also be visiting some of the other museums in Copenhagen, and posting photos and descriptions. However, before that, I will be spending the week in Prague with my DIS program. I won’t have Internet, but once I get back I should have several very interesting posts and pictures. I also look forward to my spring break this year, which is in a couple of weeks. I will be visiting the cities of Düsseldorf, Munich, Salzburg, Milan, and Zurich. Below is a very cool map I made of the cities I have visited seen over the course of my travels (yellow) as well as the cities I will be visiting (green). Enjoy!

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Padborg

Padborg is a very small town that lies immediately to the north of the Danish-German Border. It was here we visited a small concentration camp called Frøselv built during WWII to house Danish political prisoners who defied the German occupation of Denmark. Denmark has a unique history in regards to WWII, especially in its relationship to Germany at that time. In and of itself, Germany viewed Denmark rather ambivalently, as it was fairly small, and racially acceptable to the Nazi regime. However, strategically speaking, it was an important steppingstone to the German occupation of Norway. Norway was important to Germany because it offered access to controlling the North Sea, as well as proximity to the United Kingdom. Southern Norway is less than 300 miles from Scotland. Therefore on 9 April 1940, Germany launched ‘Operation Weserübong’ and invaded Denmark and Norway simultaneously. Less than six hours after German troops arrived in Denmark, King Christian X and the Danish Government officially surrendered with objection to the German Occupation. This is seen by many, especially those outside of Denmark, as a sign of either cowardice on the part of the Danes, or even worse as an indication of complacency with or support for Nazi Ideology. Nevertheless, most people in Denmark understand that it was the right decision to make. Denmark lost 16 soldiers in the few hours it resisted the German invasion, and had it continued it would have inevitably lost many more. The decision to “cooperate with objection” to the German occupation also insured the continued protection of Danish lives over the course of the war. The Danish people had managed to evacuate a majority of its Jewish population to neutral Sweden before the invasion. Additionally those five hundred or so Jews who were exported from Denmark to Theresienstadt Concentration Camp were never sent on to extermination camps. That being said, between 50 and 100 did perish during this period, predominantly but not exclusively of old age. The Danish government was also allowed to establish its own prison camp for Danish political dissidents and saboteurs. This was an attempt to ensure that Danish citizens were not deported to camps in Germany and Occupied Europe, where conditions were considerably worse. The camp was run by Germans, but funded by the Danish government. From what we learned while visiting the camp, it was much better than the camps elsewhere, but was still packed with several times its maximum occupancy towards the end of the war. Additionally, some prisoners were deported to German camps elsewhere. In all of Denmark 6,000 prisoners were held in concentration camps by the German government, and approximately 10% of them died or were executed during the process. This is one of the lowest mortality rates among Occupied Europe, and is generally understood to be a direct result of the Danish government’s decision not to resist the Germans.

From GoogleEarth

Photos of the Camp today

As you can see from the photos above, the camp itself is located inside of a small forest, and is made up of administrative buildings, barracks, and guard towers. We toured a museum in one of the barracks that documents life for the prisoners at the camp. We also heard from the Director of the museum, who explained the history and significance of the camp during WWII.

The Director also discussed the camp after the end of the war. It was converted by the Danish government into Fårhus Camp, and housed many of those who were convicted to prison sentences for collaborating with the Nazi’s during the war. This is one of the most controversial aspects of the camp, and is a very complicated issue, especially considering the relationship between Denmark and Germany in this area. Southern Jutland is a region that has historically been a part of to both Germany and Denmark, and is therefore a place where the two have mixed, and where the German minority has lived for generations. During the war however, many Germans living in Denmark felt a sense of allegiance to Germany, and many were sympathetic to Nazism. Many Danish citizens, including those considering themselves to be ethnically German, decided to collaborate with the Germans during the occupation. Many young men also joined the German army to fight the Soviets. However, when the war ended, the re-established Danish government passed retrospective laws that made collaboration with the Germans a crime. Many members of the German minority in Denmark, as well as other Danish citizens, were punished under these laws. Over all 40,000 people were arrested for suspicion of collaboration, most of whom were punished with under four years in prison (such as the one at Padborg). However 5,000 were released without charges, and 46 were executed. Many people felt that this law, especially in the respect that it acted retrospectively, in essence making certain actions illegal that were fully legal at the time of said action, amounts to nothing more than petty revenge on the part of the Danish government. This is a highly problematic part of the camps history, especially as so many members of the German minority in this region of Denmark felt as if they were unjustly treated after the war. The museum is currently working on an exhibition commemorating the Fårhus Prison, but the director clearly has strong feelings against it. He emphasized several times that those convicted were punished for collaborating with a terrorist government. It was also clear that as a very patriotic Dane, he was personally offended by any Danish citizen who he thought was working against his country.

The story of Denmark during WWII is one fraught with difficulties. On the one hand, Danes are proud that their decision to collaborate with the occupation (with objection) decreased the loss of life in Denmark, and they are especially proud that they were able to save so many of their Jewish citizens. However, those who did collaborate with the Germans, as the government did, were punished after the war. Danes also idolize the Danish Resistance Movement, which fought against the Germans once they had established control of Denmark. As our museum director contradictorily put it, “collaborating with the invasion saved our lives, but the resistance movement saved our honor.” Most Danes don’t know exactly what they feel about this part of their history. In general, they are a peace-loving nation; so finding a relatively peaceful resolution with Nazi Germany is an example of this ideal. At the same time, they believe the resistance movement had the right to fight the Germans, even though the King himself advised his people not to resist for fear of loss of Danish lives. And after the war, they took extraordinary steps to punish those, who as far as I can tell, were only following the example of the Danish government. There is no doubt in anyone’s mind that the Nazi government perpetrated some of the greatest evils known to modern history. But it does beg the question; to what extent can one hold the ordinary German people responsible? To what extent were they blinded by nationalism, fear mongering, or simply overwhelming indoctrination? And how should the descendants of those people, the modern Germans living in Germany or abroad, feel about their past? How do they reconcile their love of country with the horrendous things that country has done over the course of history? In short, for how long are we responsible for the sins of our ancestors?

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Jutland Again

It seems crazy, but I have somehow managed to make it to Denmark’s mainland peninsula Jutland (Jylland), three times now, and although I have sees many places more than once, I still learn something new each time. This time I visited Southern Jutland with my DIS core course for our Short Study Tour of Western Denmark. On this trip we visited the towns of Jelling, Sønderborg, Dybbøl , Flensburg, Ribe, Vejen, and Padborg; of which only the last two were 100% new to me. You can read more about my previous experiences in Jutland here and here. This post will discuss what new things I saw on this trip, except for Padborg, which I have reserved for a subsequent post.

Jelling is known for its Viking Rune Stones, and is a World Heritage Site and one of my favorites. However, this visit I was also able to visit the Royal Jelling museum, which was closed last time. Additionally, we were lucky enough to see the stones after a blizzard, meaning some snow had blown into the indentations on the stone, creating a very neat effect allowing the images carved into the stone to be seen very clearly.

Sønderborg and Dybbøl is the site of one of the most famous battles between Prussia and Denmark during the Second Schleswig War in 1864. It represents the end of the Danish Empire (which once included parts of Norway and Sweden, Northern Germany, as well as Iceland) and the beginning of the modern Danish propensity towards pacifism and internal development. It is also the site of a Danish Icon, the Dybbøl Mill. Last time I visited the mill was under construction, and I was unable to see it. This time, I was able to see only a little more however, as there was heavy fog that morning. We also visited the museum on the battle site, which documents the history of the war and the battle. The Victory Column of Berlin, which I saw in January, is in part a monument to the Prussian victory of the Danes at this battle.

Vejen is the home of Danish Sculptor Niels Hansen Jacobsen (1861-1941) and its art museum now houses many of his works. He is a sculptor beloning to the French Symbolism movement, and his sculptures are often dark and grotesque.

One of his most famous works, The Troll that Smells Christian Blood

Militarism

The Shadow

Ribe is Denmark’s oldest town, and this year is celebrating its 1300th birthday. It is a very quaint old town, best known for its cathedral. We toured the city and its cathedral, and were even able to climb to the top of its tower to get a panoramic view of the town and its surroundings.

A very old building

The Cathedral

Views of Ribe from atop the Cathedral Tower

There is a small Viking museum in Ribe, which has many artifacts as well as reconstructions from the Viking times, when the town was founded.

I also had an interesting cultural experience in Ribe. My friends and I decided it would be fun to visit a Danish tavern one night after dinner. We wandered around the completely deserted town until we found Sønderjylland Hotel, and old pub not far from the cathedral. Upon entering we discovered it was mostly a bar occupied by elderly chain-smoking Danish men, along with some old wooden stalls and a pool table. We all got our drinks, me my favorite Somersby Apple Cider, and sat down at a table in the corner. Not long after we arrived however, a large white-haired man speaking what appeared to be German joined us. He was obviously intoxicated so we let him continue speaking for a few minutes. After he summoned the bartender to bring us all more drinks, we learned that he was the Danish owner of the bar, and that his English was not very good. We tried talking to him in Danish, but he seemed intent of practicing at least one foreign language with us. Somehow, I was able to understand him enough to learn that his was Danish, born in Ribe itself, but that he had German or Austrian family. He also knew some Spanish, and told me that he had been to Alicante in southern Spain. He was also planning a trip to Bali, Indonesia. Unfortunately for us, his drunkenness inhibited him from formulating sentences in less than two languages, and his sentences were a spattering of Danish, German, English, and Spanish. It was a fantastic opportunity to test my capacities for linguistic comprehension, as well as a valuable reminder of the absurdity and dangers of alcoholism. We left an hour or so later (after promising our new friend we would return the next night) in complete shock of the experience we had just gone through. Needless to say we were sure he would not remember us and were somewhat comforted by the fact that we would be 150 miles away in Copenhagen by the next evening.

Our Pub, Sønderjylland Hotel

Overall, it was a great study tour, and it gave me the opportunity to think about western Denmark in a new way. I also have a very important discussion of the town of Padborg which I will be publishing soon, as it really was a fascinating story.