Spring Break 2010

I am just 14 hours away from heading off on my penultimate vacation of two semesters studying abroad in Europe. I decided I wanted to see mountains again, as it has been many months since I saw anything larger that a hill, and so I am headed south to the Alps. My main destinations are Munich Germany, Salzburg Austria, Milan Italy, and Zurich Switzerland, with short day trips to Düsseldorf Germany, Turin Italy, and Vaduz Lichtenstein. I am very excited for this trip, because I am going to be traveling like most Europeans have for the last one hundred years, via train. Below is a map of my route. The blue line represents my flight to Munich via Düsseldorf. The red line represents my travels via train throughout the Alps, and the green line represents my flight back to Copenhagen. I am very excited to see all of these cities, to see mountains, and to travel my train. I will be blogging as I go along, and posting at least one blog per city as soon as I return to Copenhagen in two weeks time. Until then, Auf Wiedersehen and Arrivederci!

Bispebjerg

Bispebjerg – The Bishop’s Mountain – is a northern suburb of Copenhagen, and is now home to a large number of Denmark’s immigrants from the Middle East. However, it also has two very interesting attractions from the first half of the 20^th century; Bispebjerg Kirkegård (Bispebjerg Cemetery) and Grundtvigs Kirke (Grundtvig’s Church).

Bispebjerg Cemetery was established in 1903, to accommodate the ever-growing and ever-diversifying population of Copenhagen. It has several special sections for Catholics and Muslims, as well as for the victims of the Nazi Occupation of Denmark, both Danish and British. Additionally, it has sections devoted to Swedes as well as several for Russian and German Soldiers. It is certainly a multicultural cemetery. At the main entrance, the rules of the cemetery are explained in a quadralingual sign: in Danish, English, Turkish, and Arabic. Danes maintain their cemeteries much better than Americans do; they are virtually city parks where people happen to be buried. It is a place with well-kept avenues lined with well-manicured trees, as well as areas where more naturally growing flora flourishes. In one of these areas I discovered several of Denmark’s well-known forårsbebuder (heralds of spring), the first wildflowers of the year, marking the true beginning of spring. The birch trees were also undergoing their yearly transformation; shedding their old bark for a new reddish-tan covering that will soon fade back to the distinctive black-and-white by which birch trees are so recognizable.

Bispebjerg Cemetery

Forårsbebuder: Erantis (Eranthis)

Forårsbebuder: Vintergæk (Snowdrop)

Forårsbebuder: Krukus (Crocus)

New Birch Bark

Not far from the cemetery sits Grundtvig’s Church, a stone-structure built in the 1920’s in Expressionist style. It is named after Denmark’s illustrious Nikolaj Frederik Severin Grundtvig, a scholar and priest from the Danish Golden Age, the first half of the 19^th century. He transformed Lutheranism in Denmark, founded the Danish Folk High School system, and encouraged the preservation of Scandinavian mythology and folklore as essential to the national character. He is often credited as the founder of modern Danish national consciousness, and as such is one of the most important Danes of the Golden Age. The church built in his honor is very unique, because it is one of the only expressionist churches built. It is very elongated, reaching to heaven, with a uniform façade of tan bricks. The buildings around the church were built of the same material and style, which gives the whole neighborhood a cohesive aura. Personally, as much as I liked the church, I felt the overall affect was very sterile and inorganic, especially when contrasted with the abundance of the cemetery. It is an interesting paradox that the space dedicated to honoring the dead is most alive, while the space dedicated to celebrating God-given life feels so lifeless. The inside of the church is incredibly simplistic. Plain wooden chairs, not pews, line the nave. There are two simple pulpits, and a brick altar clothed in a white fabric toped by a candelabra. There are no paintings on the walls, and no stained-glass windows. Perhaps it was the conspicuous lack of ornamentation, or the fact that it was the first time I had ever been the only person in such a large church, but it left me with a very strange feeling afterwards. I was glad to be back outside in the fresh spring air, which has finally arrived in Copenhagen, though I will soon be heading south to the Alp Mountains, where I am hoping spring has truly sprung.

Danes are like Hobbits…

“Hobbits are an unobtrusive but very ancient people, more numerous formerly than they are today; for they love peace and quiet and good tilled earth: a well-ordered and well-farmed countryside was their favourite haunt.”~J.R.R. Tolkien, Prologue to The Lord of the Rings

Yes, we all know that Hobbits are a short, merry folk who make their living as simple farmers, and who live in a hole in the ground. We also know that Danes are tall people, emotionally reserved, less than three-percent of whom still farm, and all of whom live very much above the ground. Nevertheless, there is something about Danes that reminds me irresistibly of the Hobbits. Maybe it’s their love of ale or of breaking into song. Maybe it is their excessive smoking habits. Either way, there are some interesting parallels to be drawn between the land of The Shire and the Kingdom of Denmark. Some of these comparisons are, of course, rather superficial, but still a lot of fun to ponder.

Hobbits are known for enjoying the comfort of their homes. The home represents all that is wholesome and good. It is a place for family and friends to come together, shut themselves off from the perils of the outside world, and enjoy a candle-lit meal and lengthy conversation. The same is true of the Danish home. They have even have a word for it, hygge, meaning coziness and comfort. Danish hygge involves many of the same elements, especially the candlelight.

Food in Denmark is also a lot like what I would imagine Hobbits eat. Traditional Danish cuisine consists of barley, potatoes, rye, roots, greens, berries, and mushrooms, the last of which we are told Hobbits are particularly fond of. A large portion of Danish foods are also grown organically, much like they would have been in a pre-industrial Shire. Like Hobbits, Danes are also great lovers of beer. Denmark is the seventh highest consumer of beer per capita in the world, at over 23 gallons per person per year.

Another intriguing similarity between The Shire and Denmark is how they perceive outsiders. Hobbits are notoriously distrustful of outsiders, and to an extent so are Danes. I have written before about the issues Denmark is currently having now that there are a large number of immigrants living in Denmark, the same would probably be true in the Shire. At the same time, there is a lot of well-meaning animosity between the different farthings of the Shire. We hear a lot about how Hobbits of Hobbiton think Bucklanders are a queer-folk, much in the way that Zealanders in Copenhagen love making fun of the residents of Western Jutland.

In a little known chapter of the Lord of The Rings, The Scouring of the Shire, Frodo and the Hobbits return to their homeland to find it under the control of a puppet leader, Lotho Sackville-Baggins, who everyone knows is under the control of the evil wizard Saruman. Much like the Danes during WWII, most of the Hobbits are quietly complacent, preferring the peacefully accept the circumstances. However, a small resistance faction eventually contributed to the downfall of Saruman/Nazi Germany.

Finally, in the ultimate marriage of Danish environmental consciousness and Hobbit aesthetics, I give you the Low-Impact Woodland Home. It looks like a Hobbit-hole, but it is really an ecologically sound home, built from scratch, with special consideration taken to how it would impact the environment.

When Liberal means Conservative

I have been planning on writing about Danish Politics for quite some time now, but have never worked up the energy to do so. Some of my friends have taken the Danish Politics class, and so are probably much more qualified to analyze it in-depth than I am. However, I will share some of my impressions and opinions, from a slightly different perspective, I hope.

It is often difficult for many Americans to discuss non-American politics. They have to step away from the categorical concepts we use for American politics, as politics are organized differently here. The most obvious of these is the infamous liberal-conservative pairing. In America, these are seen as polar opposites on a political spectrum, within which all politicians must categorize themselves. However, these distinctions do not exist as clearly in Danish Politics, or even European Politics in general.

In fact, as my title implies, the words liberal and conservative mean very similar political programs here in Denmark. One must take into consideration the origin of these ideas in European politics. Once upon a time, the nations of Europe were governed by absolute monarchies. However, during the Age of Enlightenment, a group of individuals decided people should have rights, such as equality, liberty, private property, and democracy. Those individuals who for the next hundred or so years fought for these rights were called Liberals. Those individuals who fought against them, who were in support of the continued reign of the aristocracy were called Conservatives. However, as democracy took hold, and eventually all people were secured basic democratic rights, these terms began to change their meaning. In America they came to mean one thing, in Europe, another. One aspect of the original program of European liberals was the promotion of a free-market economy, and it is this element that modern European liberals have emphasized as an important ideology. However, Conservatism in Europe also promotes the capitalist ideal. Therefore, in terms of economic policy, European liberals and conservatives often have a lot in common. They sometimes differ on social and cultural issues, with the conservatives tending to be more traditional and resistant to change. In Europe, the Liberal-Conservative dichotomy is best understood in different terms, namely Progressive-Liberal. Progressive parties are those who favor socialist economic systems, where the government has more power to regulate the market, and to provide social support for its people. Progressives are also forward thinking when it comes to social or cultural issues.

Below are some of Denmark’s mainstream political parties, along with short descriptions and their positions on certain issues. I think it is interesting that there are so many different political parties in Denmark, and how they do not at all fall into the categories that American political parties do. I think the US could learn a lot from Europe’s multi-party systems. The two-party system stifles diversity of political thought, and pigeonholes politicians into having to choose from the lesser of two evils, as opposed to a party that truly represents their varied beliefs.

The Liberals (literally: The Left)- The current governing party. Generally right-of-center, meaning their name is deceptive. They originally started as an advocate of the farmers. They are economically in favor of a free-market and of keeping taxes low. Generally cautious about immigration. In favor of individual rights in relation to the state and other institutions, and less interested in the rights of groups.

The Conservative Party-In coalition with the Liberals. Similar in many issues. Right-of-center, though more liberal than other European conservative parties. Slightly more skeptical of immigration and minority rights.

The Social Democrats (Socialdemokraterne)-Currently the largest opposition party. A progressive, left-of-center party. Economically in favor of social democracy, that is a strong social welfare state. Culturally progressive, and slightly more sympathetic to immigrants.

The Socialist People's Party (Socialistisk Folkeparti)-A left wing, socially democratic and green party. Inspired by the Marxist critique of capitalism, they believe the state should be responsible for shaping a positive society for all its members, and not for large corporations and other institutions. They are, however, skeptical of the European Union, and of adopting the Euro as a currency.

The Unity Alliance, The Red-Green Alliance-A combination of the Communist Party of Denmark, the Left-Socialist Party, and the Socialist Worker’s Party, this is Denmark’s farthest left party. They support a comprehensive social welfare system, social justice for all, environmental sustainability, and international solidarity in the struggle against capitalism. They are also opposed to the EU.

The Danish Peoples Party-I have written about this party before, here. It is perhaps the most enigmatic party. On the one hand, they support improved welfare for the elderly and for animals, but are opposed to the EU. Their most outspoken policies, however, are opposition to immigration into Denmark. They are practically openly racist against Muslims and other non-Danes. They oppose headscarves, and mosques in Denmark. They once offered to pay immigrants to leave the country permanently. They also support higher spending on national defense and the US lead war on terror. Their political catchphrase is “Denmark for Danes.”

I would like to be clear, these are only my perceptions and opinions about Danish politics. If you want more information, I am providing links to their English-language web-pages. Except for Danish People’s Party, which, not surprisingly, only has a page in Danish.

Venstre, Konservative, Socialdemokraterne, Socialistisk Folkeparti, Enhedslisten, Dansk Folkeparti (Danish), Radikale Venstre, Liberal Alliance.

Český Krumlov

One of my favorite parts of my study tour in the Czech Republic was our trip to the small town of Český Krumlov, in the south of Bohemia, just 15 miles from the Austrian border. Krumlov lies inside the region of Bohemia known as the Sudetenland, which has historically been the home to many German-speaking families. The Sudetenland is essential a crescent shaped area making op the northern, western, and southern borders of Bohemia with Germany and Austria. These are generally mountainous areas, and were renown for their fine craftwork, especially glass, textiles, paper, and toys. Germans first arrived in Czech Bohemia in the 1200’s, however many more arrived once it became part of the Holy Roman Empire, and then the Austro-Hungarian Empire. In fact, after the Thirty Years War (1618-1648), Bohemia was essentially a German-speaking country. The governing elite was ethnically German, and only the rural peasants spoke Czech. After WWI, when the Austro-Hungarian Empire was dissolved, many of the Germans in these regions wanted the Sudetenland to be part of Germany or Austria. Alas, the Allied forces decided at Versailles to keep Bohemia ‘intact’ and the Sudeten Germans became a minority within the newly established Republic of Czechoslovakia. Unfortunately, the Germans in the region were treated fairly poorly within the republic, and their hardships were exacerbated when the Great Depression hit and luxuries such as glass and toys were no longer exportable. These two factors combined to make the Sudeten Germans very poor and very angry. When Hitler announced that he would be the ally of all Germans in the Sudetenland, and the rest of the Eastern Europe, he was welcomed with open arms. After the Munich Agreement of 1938, as Nazi troops marched into the Sudetenland, they were welcomed with public glee and exaltation. The Sudetenland was the most nazified region of the Third Reich, and Hitler even made a trip to Český Krumlov, where he was most welcome. After the end of the war, however, the Czech people were tired of dealing with Germans, and therefore almost all Germans were exiled from the country. Some of them were driven forcibly from their homes by their friends and neighbors. The rest had their property seized by the state, and were given deadline by which they had to leave the country. What is most incredible is that the Allied Powers who encouraged the transfer of Germans could find no objective criteria to define who is German and who is Czech, so they resorted to using Hitler’s own racial criteria and definitions.

We heard from a Czech woman who grew up in Krumlov, and the talked to us about the town’s history. She felt very conflicted about the German issue. She admitted that she personally felt an inherent aversion to Germans and the German language, but at the same time, she felt very guilty that they were driven from their homes. At the same time, she talked to us about how she was fearful that Germans would return to the Sudetenland to re-claim their homes, even though they have no legal claim to them anymore. She told us that many of the German tourists in Krumlov visit their family homes, talk about how they want them back, and about how someday the Sudetenland will be German again. At the same time, within Germany itself, most of the refugees who fled their homes felt like outsiders once they arrived. They were considered racially German, but they were not culturally the same, they were distinct Sudeten Germans. However, because of the guilt they feel for having supported the Nazis, many of them didn’t feel comfortable talking about how they were wronged. Most people don’t even know about the German transfers, for this very reason; we don’t know how we understand it. Were the Sudeten Germans really hate-filled supporters of Nazism, or were they just deceived and disillusioned with their treatment by Czechoslovakia? Did they deserve to be driven from their homes, where there families had lived for hundred of years? Is being a German really incompatible with being a citizen of the Czech Republic? How should Germans today feel about what happened over sixty year ago? Are they still responsible for what their grandparents may have done during the war? Dealing with these questions is one of the reasons I really liked Český Krumlov, and also the reason I am traveling back to German-speaking lands in a few weeks. I plan on spending 3 days in Germany, 2 days in Austria, and 3 days in Switzerland and Lichtenstein. German speaking peoples have a unique character that somehow appeals to me, so I am hoping to learn more about it while I am there.

A photograph of Hitler's visit to Krumlov. We were shocked to discover that our hotel sits 20 feet from where this photo was taken

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The town of Český Krumlov, it is an incredibly well preserved Renaissance town. As you can see in the map above, the heart of the city is essentially an island surrounded by a great bend in the Vltava River. On a cliff to one side of the river sits a huge castle, once the home to various German aristocratic families. The inner courtyards of the castle are covered in frescoes and murals, all wonderfully restored, from the Renaissance. The families of the castle were interested in alchemy and other esoteric traditions, so the walls are covered in obscure symbols and other mysterious motifs. Additionally, it is said that there is still a ghost who returns to the castle periodically to warn the residents of Krumlov of bad news or other omens. Here are some photos of the castle, outside and in, by night and day.

Another landmark of Krumlov is St. Vitus church, first built in the 14^th century. The interior is beautifully decorated with painting, statues, and other decorative features.

Finally, the rest of the town is very quaint. It only takes fifteen minutes to walk all around the old-town, but it is wonderful, and surrounded by the river on every side. I really wish we had more time in Krumlov, it had a very appealing character. The residents were friendly, and the city is saturated with museums and art. There are also several nice restaurants, as well as some great shops. As small as it is, I still feel we didn’t quite do it justice.

Dåb og Dyrehave

I recently realized that this blog has focused rather heavily on my travels abroad, and that I have neglected writing about my life here in Denmark. This is due partly to the fact that I haven’t done that much exciting lately, because the weather has been awful. Denmark is just now coming out of the coldest winter in 20 years; so most of us have stayed cozily inside our houses. Nevertheless, now that the sun has returned, I will undoubtedly be exploring Copenhagen again, and hopefully writing about it.

For now, I am going to tell you about today, my lovely Danish Sunday. My host mother’s sister recently had a daughter, and today the whole family got together for he baptism (Dåb) into Den Danske Folkekirke (the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Denmark). Generally, the Danes are not very religious people. My host father once told me most Danes consider themselves four-wheel Christians, meaning they go church on four occasions during their life; their baptism, their communion, their wedding, and their funeral. As I also learned in December, many of them also go for Christmas. Nevertheless, today my extended host-family descended upon Lyngby Kirke, or rather we ascended up to it, as it sits upon a hill. Built in the 1100’s in Romanesque style, it is a beautiful old church. According to its English language promotional material, the church was built on the sight of an earlier wooden church. Apparently, people used to believe that the hill was once a site of pagan worship. It was fairly common practice in the past for churches to be built on the site of pagan temples, making it easier to converts to feel at home with the new religion of the land. Nevertheless, the flyer I grabbed dedicated the entire first paragraph to dispelling this belief, before it even states when the church was built., which quite frankly makes me think they are compensating for something.

That being said, it was a beautiful church. The ceiling was covered in frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible and the lives of the saints. These were of course covered in plaster and white paint with the arrival of the Reformation (Lutherans do love their whitewash), but they have been well preserved and restored. The service was like any other Lutheran service, except that it was in Danish. We sang, prayed, listened to a sermon about spiritual hunger, took communion, and then at the end we witnessed the baptism of three-month-old Vigga Marie.

Afterwards, we all went to Restaurant Kongekilden (The Royal Spring), which is located inside Jægersborg Dyrehave (Jægersborg Deer Park, literally Hunter-Castle’s Animal Garden). We had a lovely Danish Smørgåsbord buffet-style brunch. We ate, among other things, muesli with yoghurt, bread, butter, cold-cut meat, cheese, smoked salmon, sausage, bacon, eggs, fresh fruit, and a delicious chocolate brownie that we all decided was made of pure butter.

After brunch, and several hours of chit-chat, we all went for a walk in the Deer Park. We were hoping to have the chance to see some of the deer, but instead we got to enjoy the beautiful weather animal free. The weather was a little cold, but sun was shining, something we haven’t seen in months. The park is great, though perhaps a bit muddy. It is full of ancient oak trees, many of which have survived lightning strikes. It was a great end to the day, most of which had been spent attempting to interpret 30 Danes conversing simultaneously. My understanding of Danish is getting better, though I still sound awful when I attempt to pronounce even to most simple sentences. Maybe one day I will get a hang of it, but for now I must content myself with merely understanding some of what is going on around me. It will be a strange change when I get home and can understand every conversation, read every sign, and order a pastry without butchering its name.