Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Commentary at La Campana


This, my final post about my trip to Spain, is an homage to the blog of one of my closest friends, who spent her summer studying abroad in Sevilla. You can find her blog, and her ‘Commentary at La Campana’ here. La Campana is one of the oldest and best-known cafes in central Sevilla, and it is from here that I wish to share with you some of my concluding thoughts about Sevilla and Spanish Culture. Having been in three very different countries in the past three weeks, I feel I am in the unique position of being able to compare my impressions of the three different cultures. Denmark is, generally, a quiet and orderly country, where everyone waits their turn in line, and where people generally keep their emotions to themselves while in public. However, Danes can be as kind and generous as anyone else once you get to know them and become their friends. Pretty much all Danes speak English, and the second they discover you are a foreigner, they immediacy switch to English, preferring you not to butcher their Danish Language, which I assure you is an inevitability. Russians are pushy in lines and organization is not a top priority. They are even more reserved than Danes when they first meet you. They do not smile with people they do not know and more often than not, from what I experienced, they are antagonistic towards others, especially foreigners. Many of them in the tourist industry are unaccustomed to Americans, and can at times be almost hostile towards them. They expect that you speak Russian, and even if they understand what you ask in English, they will probably respond in Russian. Spaniards are much more openly emotional than either the Danes or the Russians. It is not uncommon to hear someone yelling into their cell-phones in exasperation or frustration, a sight you would rarely see in Copenhagen. They are also much more friendly on the streets, even with people they do not know. Many of them do speak English, but if they know you speak even a little Spanish they are very encouraging and appreciative of the gesture. Spaniards are also much more pushy in lines. It was funny to watch them board the plane in Copenhagen, the steward had to keep announcing that only certain seats were allowed to board, not that that stopped the Spaniards from forming a mob around the door.

Some other random thoughts I would like to share about Spain. The people are so accustomed to warm weather in the summer that they find November to be cold. I arrived in Seville with t-shirts and no jackets, anticipating the idyllic 70° (21°C) weather, which I found warm compared to Denmark and Russia. Nevertheless, you could always tell who the Spaniards were because they were all wearing jackets with scarves. It was absolutely crazy that they could be cold in such perfect weather, but they were.

Spaniards really do take a siesta in the afternoon. I was very surprised on my first day there, when at two o’clock everyone started closing their shops and heading home until five or six in the afternoon. Traditionally, the siesta was designed to get people out of the streets during the hottest part of the day, but I assumed that wouldn’t be true in the winter, when it is nice outside all the time. Nevertheless, everything closes down, and you either have to find a café to wait it out, or better yet, head back to your hostel for a nap.

Overall, it was a fantastic trip to Spain. I am so glad I had the chance to return to the country, and I look forward to my next trip, whenever that may be. I would highly recommend the city of Seville to anyone looking to travel to Spain. It is not as touristy as Madrid or Barcelona, but it is still a wonderful city with wonderful people. I can see why so many people who visit the city fall in love with it.

Carmona

On my fourth day in Spain, I decided to visit outside of the city, to a small town about an hour east of Seville known as Carmona. The one thing I loved about Carmona is its history. This location has been inhabited for literally thousands of years. There is archaeological evidence going back to the Tartessians and Celt-Iberians who migrated to Spain in the eights century B.C.E. It was an important Phoenician and Carthaginian city in the fifth century BCE. Then it became a roman city called Carmon. After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was conquered by the Visigoths, and shortly thereafter it was renamed Qarmona by the Muslim rulers of Al-Andalus. After the reconquista, its name was changed to Carmona, which remains to this day. The city is full this history, and it makes for an absolutely wonderful day-trip. Some of the highlights include the several fortresses in the city, as well as its museum, which is full of artifacts discovered within the city. Below are some photos of what I saw.

Main Gate of the City

Citadel

Views of the City

Town Museum

Los Barrios de Sevilla

Seville is divided into several different neighborhoods, each with a different history and character. I stayed in the central Barrio de Santa Cruz, where the Catedral and Alcázar are located. It was probably my favorite, but also the easiest to get lost in, as the streets are very narrow and labyrinthine. I also explored many of the other barrios, each of which is unique and interesting.

Barrio de Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz is also home to Casa de Pilatos, the home of the Marquis de Tarifa.

Very narrow streets, this is my Pensión.

Barrio de La Macarena

Monolitos Romanos

Muros-City Walls

Churches

Barrio del Porvenir

Jardines de Maria Luísa

Museo Arqueológico

Plaza de España

Barrio de Arena

Torre de Oro

Río Guadalquivir

Barrio de Triana

A working-class neighborhood across the river from central Seville, and the home of many of the sailors who sailed with Columbus, as well as the home of Seville's Artists and Students.

Alcázares Reales de Sevilla

The Royal Palace of Seville was originally a Moorish fort and palace built by the Almohades dynasty which ruled in southern Spain from 1121-1269 C.E. It is a collection of Palace Buildings, with intricate patios with fountains, and an extensive garden, all of which is surrounded by a thick stone-wall. It is an amazing example of mudéjar art, which is a combination of Islamic style architecture and design with gothic and romantic motifs. It is incredibly intricate and geometric, as well as colorful. The gardens are absolutely amazing. Having recently been in freezing Russia, they are perfect. Acres of trees and flowers, along with ponds and fountains. It was built to be a paradise for the rulers of southern Spain, and it truly is, even today. Some sections of the palace are still used as the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family when they visit Seville. I spent several hours, and could have spent several more, wondering the gardens and patios. It is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited, and I seem at a loss for words fit to describe its idyllic tranquility.

The Outer-Wall

Palace Interior

Gardens, Patios, and Fountains

And finally, a poem by Luis Cernuda, written in the 1940’s from exile, about the city of his birth.

“It was a sky of blue, clean and pure, glorious in light and warmth. Among the tops of the palm tree, above the terraced roofs and white corridors that crowned the garden, a grey and ocher tower stood slenderly like the chalice of a flower.”

Ocnus, Ancient Garden

To Luis Cernuda, on the 100th year of his birth, Seville, 2002.

This very poor translation is my own, and hopefully the English conveys some of the surreal beauty of these gardens.

La Catedral de Sevilla

The Cathedral of Seville, or La Catedral de Santa María de la Sede, is the third largest church in the world, after St. Peters Basilica in Italy, and Basilica of the National Shrine of Our Lady of Aparecida in Italy. It was completed in the 1500’s on the sight of a former Moorish mosque. Several parts of the mosque were used in the structure of the new cathedral, including a minaret tower, which was converted into a bell tower, known as La Giralda. It is the highest point in central Seville, and offers a wonderful view of the architecture of the Cathedral as well as the layout of the city of Sevile.

A View of the Facade of the Cathedral

The Interior

A side chapel

The Main Altar

A View of Seville from La Giralda

The Layout of the Cathedral

From Patio de las Naranjas

La Giralda at night